Tool Restoration
H.D. Smith & Co.
Sometimes all an old tool needs is a little patience, a new handle, and another opportunity to do the work it was built for.
A Gift from My Uncle
I haven't done a tool restoration since the Wiss snips back in September. Not that I have to do them all the time but they sure are fun. So now I've completed the restoration of an H.D. Smith auto body hammer given to me by my Uncle, who also gave me the Wiss snips! This should be a quick post so - let's get into it!
A (Very) Little About H.D. Smith & Co.
Before we get into the hammer itself, I thought maybe we could make note of the old H.D. Smith & Company. The company was started Plantsville, Connecticut by, you guessed it - H.D. (Henry D.) Smith in 1850. In the beginning the company drop forged iron carriage parts, and by 1900 had begun to patent a number of hand tools, among them a forged steel hammer in 1907.
So, What Have We Here?
A few times now, for no other reason than he's a nice guy, my uncle has picked up some old tools for me. This time, in addition to this red auto wrench, he snatched this vintage auto body hammer!
She'd certainly seen better days. This old cloth electrician's tape says a couple things - it was old, and it was covering something up. My money said that handle was broken.
And of course, the head had some rust issues - just the way I love it!
A strong, well-built handle is essential to any quality tool. The hammer handle-making process has been perfected over hundreds of years. Hickory wood has long been thought of as the best material for hammer and axe handles. It is a heavy wood with a fairly straight grain. Hickory is also uniquely shock-resistant, a valuable characteristic for an impact tool. - The Hammer Museum
Let's Look At That Handle
I have no idea what was going on with the wedges in the handle. When I took it apart it seemed like some of the pieces were just large staples. Not only was there no actual metal wedge, there wasn't even a wood wedge in the handle. I suppose they (whoever they were) just drove in whatever little piece of metal they had on hand when needed.
Next I removed all that classic old cloth tape...
And there it was, the handle had three different splits, one of which ran about half way down the handle. Of course, as predicted, that explains the tape!
And in a jiff - all two parts of the hammer were separated!
Broken hammer handles always make me wonder how many years of work led to that final crack. Handles are meant to wear out, they're the sacrificial part of the tool. A good hammer head might last a century or more, while several handles come and go over its lifetime. Replacing the handle isn't changing the tool's history; it's simply writing the next chapter.
Rust Removal
Take another look at the picture above and take note of how rusty the hammer head was. It was bad enough that some spots were scaly. Clearly some bit of work needed to be done to get that rust off, so I started with Evaporust...
As always the Evaporust did a really nice job, to the point that I didn't even need to use the wire wheel.
However, I did run the edges and the faces on both ends through the belt sander. I took out as much of the pitting as I could, but I just didn't have the heart to go deep enough to remove all the pitting. It just seemed like I would have taken off way too much material.
After putting in a bit of effort with a little Flitz metal polisher, the hammer faces turned out pretty good..
Poplar is very soft, which makes it a great wood for axe handle wedges. It will expand and fit the gaps well when needing to properly hang an axe (or a hammer). Also, it is a very renewable resource as Tulip Poplar grows very fast. - Thrane Axe and Saw Company
Ford(?) Blue
A close inspection of the hammer head before all the sanding and cleanup showed that blue was the original color. It was a kind of dark blue, but I had a can of model enamel that was Testor's equivalent to Ford Blue, although I think Ford's was a little darker.
Of course, after a quick painting I put it in the shop oven for a couple days to kind of bake the paint onto the hammer head. I don't know if it really works that way, but it just makes a little sense to me so, why not?
I don't know, but I thought I'd include a kind of romantic shot of the oven baking away in the shop. Interesting the things we consider romantic sometimes!
Some random tool restoration posts from 2022...
✤ Webbing stretcher upholstery tool - December 2022
✤ Baily No. 5 jack plane restoration - October 2022
✤ Stanley No. 199 utility knife - August 2022
✤ Hand-cranked bench grinder - January 2022
⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯
And a random flower post from September 2018
Hanging the New Handle
With the hammer head all cleaned up and painted, it was time to hang it onto a new handle. Over the years I've begin to have a little collection of metal and polar wedges for the hammers, so I didn't have to buy any for this little project.
However - the eye on the hammer head is pretty small (small hammer, small eye), and I didn't have a metal wedge small enough. So I clamped one in the ol' Channellock and ground the sides a bit so the wedge was a perfect custom fit!
Then, before I cut the relief for the poplar wedge, I drilled a hole through the handle neck. This helps to prevent the new handle from splitting when installing wedges. A little trick I learned from Scoutcrafter on YouTube.
Then I cut the relief with a hack saw. Normally I use a back saw but because the neck is kind of thin, I wanted to be a little gentler with the cutting.
Once the handle was nicely shouldered...
It was wedge time!
Putting in the wedges is always a bit nerve racking. It's not particularly difficult to do, but this is the stage where, if you're going to split the new handle, you're gonna do it here. But there's no finessing things at this point. The wedge has to go in. So, with a little glue on the wedge, I went at it. And et voila! - No split!
Then the metal wedge (also a bit rough on the nerves) was driven perpendicular to the poplar wedge. And all of this was topped off with a bit of boiled linseed oil which I'll do every day for a week, then once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then yearly. All of this, the relief cut, the bottom hole, poplar wedge, metal wedge and linseed oil will work together so this hammer head won't come off for decades!
After that, a couple coats of amber shellac finished off the handle...
Finished at Last
And almost as quickly as it began, this restoration was complete. Oh yeah - there's that circle S logo for H.D. Smith.
I also took a little acetone to the "Drop Forged" lettering just to gussy the hammer up a little...
Also, I've mentioned a couple times that this hammer is a little on the small side. Here it is next to my everyday hammer, just to give it a little proportion.
A little beauty shot for your viewing pleasure!
Just one more!
Its Natural Habitat
And to wrap up this restoration, here's a peak at the new old auto body hammer in its natural habitat. The only blue hammer in the stable!
Thank you so much for stopping by - see ya' next time!
I enjoy your final "natural habitat" photograph. It quietly reinforces something that appears throughout House 173: restored tools aren't destined for display shelves. They go back onto the rack beside the others, ready for the next project. That's a subtle but important distinction that gives your restorations authenticity. They aren't museum pieces, they're simply old friends returning to work. - Anonymous Reviewer
Frequently Asked Questions
What is an auto body hammer used for?
An auto body hammer is designed for shaping and smoothing sheet metal during automotive repairs. Different face shapes allow the user to stretch, flatten, or contour metal panels with greater precision than a standard carpenter's hammer. While originally intended for vehicle bodywork, many are also useful in general metalworking and restoration projects.
Who was H.D. Smith & Company?
H.D. Smith & Company was founded in Plantsville, Connecticut, in 1850 by Henry D. Smith. The company began by manufacturing forged carriage hardware before expanding into hand tools. By the early twentieth century, H.D. Smith had earned a reputation for producing durable, professional-quality tools, many of which remain collectible today.
Why are H.D. Smith tools collectible?
Collectors appreciate H.D. Smith tools because of their quality construction, distinctive maker's marks, and connection to American industrial history. Although the company is less well known than Stanley or Craftsman, surviving examples are respected for their durability and craftsmanship.
Can a broken hammer handle be replaced?
Yes. In fact, replacing worn or broken handles is one of the most common tool restorations. As long as the hammer head is sound, fitting a properly sized replacement handle can return the tool to decades of reliable service.
Why drill a relief hole before driving the wedge?
A small relief hole helps reduce the likelihood of the handle splitting as the wooden wedge expands the wood inside the hammer eye. It's a simple technique that can make hanging a hammer more reliable, especially on narrow handles.
Why use both a wooden wedge and a metal wedge?
The wooden wedge expands the handle to lock it tightly inside the hammer head. The metal wedge is then driven perpendicular to the wooden wedge, spreading the wood even farther and helping ensure the head remains securely attached during years of use.
What wood is commonly used for hammer handles?
Hickory is the traditional choice because it combines strength, flexibility, and excellent shock resistance. For wedges, softer woods such as poplar are often used because they compress easily and expand to fill gaps within the hammer eye.
Why apply boiled linseed oil to a new hammer handle?
Boiled linseed oil penetrates the wood fibers, helping protect the handle from drying and shrinking while improving its resistance to moisture. Many craftsmen apply several coats during the first year before settling into occasional maintenance applications.
Should vintage tools be restored or preserved?
That depends on the tool. Rare or historically significant examples may be better left largely original, while common working tools often benefit from thoughtful restoration. The goal is to preserve the tool's character while ensuring it remains functional for future generations.
Why restore an old hammer instead of buying a new one?
Many vintage hammers were forged from exceptionally high-quality steel and were built to withstand generations of use. Replacing a worn handle and removing surface rust often returns them to full working condition at a fraction of the cost of a comparable modern tool.
What does the "Drop Forged" marking mean?
"Drop forged" refers to a manufacturing process in which heated steel is shaped under tremendous pressure using precision dies. This process creates a stronger, denser tool than simple cast construction and became a hallmark of quality American hand tools throughout the twentieth century.
Why do tool restorations matter?
Every old tool tells two stories: the story of the company that made it and the story of the people who used it. Restoring a tool isn't about making it look new—it's about respecting both stories while giving the tool another opportunity to earn its keep. That's exactly what happened with this little H.D. Smith hammer.
Keywords
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