The Back Stoop 2024 Part 2

Porches

The Decking 

Eleven 2x6s, a mountain of sawdust and another confrontation with geometry give the old back stoop a brand-new surface.

When last we met, work had begun on the back stoop, and I had been stung by a bee.  But since then I've recovered from the cellulitis caused by the bee, which I think really was an unfortunate accident as opposed to an intentional thing by this particular bee but, I suppose we'll never know.  Nonetheless, time had come to get started on the decking of the back stoop.  Let's get into it.


The Material

When I realized it was time to do another renovation of the back stoop, I started taking a look at what options we had for the decking.  But when it came down to it, we really needed to go with what we already had, which was these rabbeted boards that overlapped one another.  This was important because this system keeps the storage space dry under the stoop.


Staying with the same style we already had, the first step in replacing the decking was to pick up some 2x6's.  This project would require no fewer than 11.


Taking the Table Saw Outside

For the first time ever, I carried my table saw outside to work on a project. I rightfully figured there'd be a whole lot of cutting, and with 11 boards I just couldn't see bringing them up-and-down from the workshop.  So, we set up in the driveway under the car port which made the task much easier.  


Human knowledge is dark and uncertain; philosophy is dark, astrology is dark, and geometry is dark. - John Jewel

And as you can see in this next picture, we generated a mountain of sawdust. I can't even imagine the mess this would have made in the basement and all over the workshop.


Cutting the Rabbet Joints

Aaand...this is where geometry came into play (again).  All we had to do was to cut rabbet joints into opposing corners of each board. Very, very simple...right?  But I must report that it took us an inordinate amount of time to figure out the geometry of the simplest of all joints.


If you noticed the blade kerf in the picture above,  I  hadn't removed enough wood so I had to use an edge guide on the circular saw...


...to make another pass in the joint. 


It took a couple hours to make all the cuts in the boards, but eventually we had a pile of "customized" decking. 


What Was Hiding Under the Old Decking

After getting stung by the bee while removing the first boards in Part 1, I thought our works take some considerable prying on the remainder but they all came off with a tug or two...in maybe two minutes!


Here's another angle.  Notice anything?


Yup - the joists (as it were) are laid out flat, but I suppose it's okay because they've late at least 30-plus years.  But the real interesting thing is the hardware holding the joists in place weren't nailed down.  Again...30-plus years, so... heck,  I put a couple roofing nails in the brackets anyways!


This is one of those things I love about working on an old house. Every time you pull off a board, open a wall or dismantle something that's been in place for decades, there's always that moment of discovery. Sometimes you find beautiful old craftsmanship. Sometimes you find something ingenious. And sometimes you just stare at it for a minute and think, Huh. Well, apparently that worked.

I'm not sure when this part of the stoop was originally built, or who built it, but those boards and supports had been sitting there doing their job since long before we bought 173 in 1997. So while I might not build it exactly the same way today, it's hard to argue too much with something that's already survived three decades or more.

Still...I nailed the brackets down.

Just sayin'.

Then, as I did with the stair stringer back in 2016, I topped the face of the joists with tar paper. 


2026 Note: If I were doing this today, I'd probably use purpose-made joist flashing tape instead. The idea is the same, keeping water off the top of the framing, but there are products made specifically for the job.

Installing the New Decking

Before getting into the installation of the newly fitted decking, I thought it interesting to point out how the old decking had been affixed to the joists. The screws had been set in the corner of the rabbet joints, and also through the joists from underneath! Brilliant! Totally concealed fasteners. 


But in our case, we decided to go the direct route... straight through the top.  Of course, we took the time to lay out some lines so the screws would make nice rows.  


And I went to some length to try not to sink the screws in too deep so as not to leave divets for water to sit in. 


And fairly quickly,  the back stoop at 173 had new decking!


Trimming and Routing the Edges

The first detail attended to was trimming the ends of the decking.   A little chalk,  a straight edge screwed in place, and my ol' circular saw made quick work of that. 


Clean as a whistle (whatever that means!).


Several poets and authors have described taken creative license to describe both cleanliness and a whistle, so the phrase’s origin may be rooted in the literary world. Some of the poets and authors have used words like pure, clear, sweet and dry to describe a whistle. This could be related to the fact that the tube of a whistle needs to be both clean and dry in order to produce its sweet, crisp sound. With many examples of these usages in older novels and poems, the meaning of the phrase in this way could have become commonplace in oral communication as well. - Steven Ip, Cleanzen Blog

The next detail was putting a bull nose profile on the ends of the decking. After messing up on the back end of the stoop,  that almost no one will ever see, I fastened the same straight edge to the deck and ran my router over the boards. 


I used my largest roundover bit, and with my 2hp router it made quick work of it. 


The setup took a few minutes,  but once everything was in place... it took all of 30 to 40 seconds! 


Of course there's sanding and other details to address, but now it's time for putting the posts for the railings back in... we're getting there!


Hey,  thanks for stopping by - see ya' next time!


I laughed when you uncovered that 30-year-old framing and thought, 'I wouldn't have done it that way.' I've said that a thousand times.

Then you remember the guy who did it is probably gone and his work is still standing. So maybe we shouldn't get cocky. 😂

I also appreciated spending ten minutes setting up the router for a 30-second cut.

That's woodworking: 90% figuring it out, 10% actually doing it. - The Retired Carpenter

FAQs

Why use overlapping rabbeted boards for porch decking?
An overlapping rabbet joint can help limit the amount of water passing directly through the gaps between boards. At House 173, that was particularly useful because the space beneath the back stoop is used for storage.

What is a rabbet joint?
A rabbet is a recessed channel cut along the edge or end of a piece of wood. In this project, opposing rabbets allow neighboring deck boards to overlap while maintaining a relatively flat surface.

Why put a barrier over porch or deck joists?
Joist tape or another appropriate waterproof membrane can help protect the top of framing members from water that works its way through the decking. Modern purpose-made joist flashing tape is generally a better choice for new work than traditional roofing felt.

Should deck screws be driven below the surface?
They should be properly seated without being unnecessarily overdriven. Driving a screw too deeply can damage the wood fibers and create a depression where water may collect.

Can you put a rounded edge on deck boards with a router?
Yes. A roundover bit can soften a sharp exposed edge and create a more finished profile. A straightedge or other guide can help keep the router aligned when working across several boards.

Keywords

back stoop decking, porch decking replacement, rabbeted deck boards, rabbet joint, DIY porch repair, wood stoop renovation, 2x6 decking, porch restoration, router roundover edge, old house repairs, exterior woodworking, House 173, back stoop remodel
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